PEAK AND THE CHULUS
peak is made up of steeply tilted rock, the dip slope of
which faces the valley and is well seen in this peak and
great rock slabs further down the valley. The
peak has a lot of scope for western flank, which is guarded
by a hanging glacier, would appear to offer a considerable
challenges, whilst a traverse of the whole summit ridge
which connects to a more northern summit before curving
back west looks a superb possibility. Access to the western
end of the ridge, however, looks problematical as the ridge
is guarded by huge rock slabs, a feature in this side of
SOUTH – WEST FACE AND RIDGE
first ascent was made by solo by J. Wellenkamp in 1955 during
a German expedition to Annapurna. This same expedition also
made an ascent of Chulu East.
forward from the upper Pisang Village through sparse wood
and pastures to a Kharka at 4,380 meters (14,370 feet).
This provides a good site for base camp.
a ridge and climbing to a shoulder on the South –
west Ridge (5,400m/17,716ft) provides a suitable site for
high camp. A well- defined ridge leads to the final snow
slope that leads quite steeply although without difficulty
to the summit.
eastern limit of these peaks run south from Chako and Peak
6,687 in a north to south direction along the Hunglung Khola,
Nar Khola and Phu Khola. To the south it is bounded by the
Marsyangdi Khola and the Mesokanta La. To the west its limit
is the Kali Gandaki and to the North the Parchekya La (5,447m/17,870ft).
exists considerable confusion with regard to the name and
location of the Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes
Chulu West and Chulu East, since it soon becomes apparent
to anyone that has climbed in the range that several other
summits close by, which are actually part of the Chulu massif,
are not indicated on present maps of the area. There are
four summits that can be included in the Chulu group in
which two are possible on the permit for Chulu West and
two on the Chulu East permit.
trekking map can be misleading, the highest of these peaks,
marked Chulu West (6,630m/21,752ft) on the trekking maps,
has a recorded altitude from at least two expedition of
nearer 6,400m (20,997 ft); this might more accurately be
called Chulu Central. The NMA gives this an official altitude
of 6,429 meters (21,060 feet).
East of this highest summit is a lower peak that can rightly
be termed Chulu East. Most of the trekking maps give this
an altitude of 6,200 meters (20,060 feet), although the
official height is 6.584 metres (21,601 feet). However,
continuing two miles east along the ridge is another peak,
well seen from the airstrip at Ongre and separated from
the East Peak by a col which is 5,608 meters (18,400 feet).
This summit has an altitude nearer 6,059 metres (19,880
feet) and should really be termed Chulu East.
first ascent of the central, and highest, peak appears to
have been made by Rudolph Schietl, Levin O’Connell,
Sonam Gyao Sherpa and Sonam Chottar Sherpa on 16 October
EAST (6,200M/ 20,341ft)
ascent of the North – east ridge was by Dick Isherwood
and John Noble, leading a Mountain Travel Climbing Group
in May 1979. From high camp established in moraines at 5,334
meters (17,500 feet) climb towards the head of the Chegaji
Khola below a col on the ridge separating Chulu East and
the Far East summits.
to the col (5,608m/18,400ft) and descend, crossing the glacier
basin that descends from the Chulu East toward the Nar Khola.
On the far side of the glacier ascend steep scree slopes
to the North- East Ridge at 5,719 meters (19,000 feet).
On the first ascent the high camp was established here.
CHULU FAR EAST
the camp in the moraines at 5,334 meters (17,500 feet) below
the col separating the east and far East Peaks of Chulu,
gain the col (5,608m/18,400ft). From the col follow the
South- west ridge on snow and ice throughout to the summit.
of Chulu West and Chulu Central are best made from a base
camp in a small valley north of Manang situated off the
main trail to the Thorong La. Indeed some of the best views
of these peaks can be had from that pass.
– WEST RIDGE
ascent was on 4 November 1978 by Dr Larry Zaroff, Peter
Lev, Ang Jambo Sherpa and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa.
beyond the hut following the yak pastures and walking up
the ridge leads into a hidden valley where it is possible
to find a good site for base. From this camp, ascend steep
scree slopes to a col (4,900m/16,076ft), on a subsidiary
ridge that leads down from the main ridge. To the north
of the col-ascend snow slopes for 200 meters to the base
of a band of rock at an altitude of 5,100 meters and the
site for a possible high camp.
another camp can be established climbing the rock band with
some difficulty to the north – west shoulder of Chulu
First ascent was made by Rudoph Schietl, Kevin O’Connell,
Sonam Gyao Sherpa and Sonam Chottar Sherpa.
From the same base camp ascend to the col (4,900m/16,076ft).
climb snow slopes to the north of the col to the base of
a rock band (5,100m/16,732ft), where a camp is possible.
From this camp, traverse on to the Chulu Glacier basin to
the east of the ridge and ascend the broad glacier slopes,
avoiding serac obstacle. The slopes are not too steep but
it might be problem with soft snow progress.
to the central summit which is now well seen, crowned by
a definite pinnacle. Continue towards this slopes on steepening
snow until it is possible to gain the crest of the summit
ridge, which may be corniced.
most obvious is the impressive South face seen as you follow
the trail from Manang to Thorong Phedi. This will undoubtedly,
one day, yield routes of considerable difficulty and interest.